Frequently Asked Questions
A: NO. If you are adding refrigerant every year than there is more than likely a leak somewhere in the system..
A: At least once a year. However a Preventative Maintenance Plan with 2 checkups a year is optimal.
A: YES. This can be the difference in a unit lasting 10 years without it, and 15 years with a maintenance plan.
A: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. The lower the S.E.E.R. rating, the more energy (electricity) is required. The higher the S.E.E.R rating a less amount of energy is used.
A: The most common are: Low in refrigerant, bad capacitor, bad motor, blocked drain line, bad contactor, and blocked air flow.
A: Generally: Bad capacitor, bad motor, bad contactor, bad relay.
Heat Pump: Bad defrost sensor, bad defrost board, No change over control.
Gas: Bad igniter, Bad thermocouple, Bad control board.
Oil: Blocked oil filter, blocked nozzle, blocked or cracked heat exchanger.
A: Usually not. It is more than likely one of the more common problems causing the thermostat to turn off or look broken.
A: There are some things you can do like: check your filter, breakers, safety switches, and the thermostat. But if those do not solve your problems please call a professional.
Heating & Cooling
- Electric
- Gas
- Heat Pump
- Geothermal
- Package Units
- Oil Furnaces
Duct Work
- Round Metal Duct
- Square Metal Duct
- Flexible Duct
Ventilation
- Exhaust Fans
- Range Hoods
- Fresh Air Intakes
Thermostats
- Honeywell Pro 8000
- Honeywell Pro 4000
- We can work with anyting you want!